14 March 2020

gauze

I can't deny that my preference for fragrances has shifted towards more transparent or lightly textured scents. Initially I was a huge fan of Penhaligon's Sohan, but now such a rich rose (and my other rich roses) is nearly bearable. I am super thankful that I didn't bring for many full bottles.

I've also started to pick out 2 to 3 scents, usually around a theme, for a weekly wardrobe. It helps to have super limited choice on days where I don't particularly feel like wearing a fragrance. Previously the weekly rotation has been lighter woods, which changed to modern "chypres", and now it's to lighter vetivers (Essential Parfums mon vetiver, and Commodity vetiver).

I'm trying hard to like modern "chypres", which I keep putting in quotations since its a stretch to categorize some of them as chypres (looking at you Diptyque eau capitale). Below is my second impressions of Zoologist's Nightingale and Parfum MDCI's chypre palatine:

Nightingale is more fruity in the opening, where the fruit notes whiff in and out of a standard citrusy chypre top notes, whereas Chypre Palatine is consistently more creamy and slightly powdery than the standard, but with still the kick of moss. None are coy. Though now influenced by Fragrantica’s description, I do smell some fruitiness wrapped up in the other notes of Chypre Palatine. I don’t recall noticing the first time wearing Nightingale, but there’s a note of flower petals coated in sugar, but with a very light texture. It’s very surprising since it’s such a comfortable note, whereas chypres are definitely aggressive feeling to me. Nightingale continues this theme of lightly textured sweet fruits, while Chypre Palatine goes a more aromatic route. Interestingly I once again noticed something new in Nightingale, a strong whiff of a woody note. Otherwise the two continue down their aforementioned trajectory along the Chypre path. I do enjoy both, but will only buy a full bottle if I decide to start a chypre collection. My true love will always be Hasu no Hana, or more realistically Clinique Aromatic Elixir 😅

My second impression is considerably less favourable than my first for nightingale, I didn't smell the beautiful openings and base notes. The longevity was also surprisingly short, just 4 hours-ish? Not sure why there is such a big discrepancy. I feel slightly more favourable towards chypre palatine since it's performance is really good (lasted until the next morning), and feel its creaminess is suitable for the cooler weather.

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