tl;dr: it's good, but it seems like the base notes of all 3 collections is either creamy or musky, both of which is not my cup of tea :(
Sylvaine Delacourte Ozkan
Hmm, a very medicinal opening. Not the hanbang type that I usually like, this one is slightly off-putting due to the…camphor? liquorice? It is growing on me tho. However, I don’t detect much of orange blossom, or at least as a distinct note. Even after looking at the official list of notes, I can’t say I can pick out any of them distinctly, so perhaps its a pro that this scent is so well blended. I do notice the leather starting to appear about an hour in. Few more hours later, the prominent note to me is the Tonka bean. Very creamy, slightly sweet and powdery. The leather never became strong, which is a relief for me. Interestingly, I can still clearly smell the medicinal accord if I put my nose right next to it, after more than 12 hours later. Overall not a scent I'd wear.
Sylvaine Delacourte Oscarine
Yay a petit grain opening! The orange blossom is prominent too. There is a richness that follows the opening, and stays for most of the fragrance. But it turns out I’m wrong, there is no petit grain, but rather basil and pine needles. I can’t say that I can identify those notes even with the knowledge that they’re there. There is also raspberry and blackcurrant, which I also don’t get despite other reviews referring to this as a fruity floral. I do get a nutty accord for some odd reason, actually this smells strongly like a nougat now. The rest of the fragrance stays in the creamy territory. Overall, there's facets of this scent that I like, but I can't say that I enjoy this too much as a whole.
Sylvaine Delacourte Osiris
This is slightly biased as I know what the notes are suppose to be for this fragrance, hence I do smell a hint of the sesame right at the opening. It’s an interesting combination, the opening is mostly green and fresh, but not entirely so as there’s an underlying creaminess. For some reason I must be blind to the fruits in this collection, as I don’t get the clementine at all. After an hour or so, the creaminess becomes the prominent accord although the green accord is still clearly noticeable. The creaminess is very vanilla-y, rather than the sesame I was hoping for. The green accord does fade after a while, and what’s left is the orange blossom (now I realize it was always here, but not distinct until after the green fades) and the vanilla notes. The fragrance doesn’t change afterwards. Overall it’s pleasant and I see myself using up the sample, but not purchasing a full bottle.
Sylvaine Delacourte Olyssia
Ok I swear I smell petit grain in every one of these fragrances opening, and I better be right this time. That or this is neroli on top of orange blossom. The opening is green and floral, very pleasant. The floral quickly dominants, and it is a subtly honeyed floral. Extremely pleasant. This fragrance stays this way for about 3 hours, but that’s about it for its longevity. Overall I can see myself using up the sample, but not buying a full bottle.
In comparison to L’artisan Parfumeur’s historic d’orange, which is one of the iconic orange blossom fragrances, the opening of that is purely floral, then some warmth and then some green notes come in. There’s also some spice note that I haven’t previously noticed, kinda like star anise which also has a woody quality. Interestingly, this transitions completely to the impression of the orange tree’s branch, with minimal flowers right after the opening. The scent again changes to a soapy floral, I don’t recall this fragrance changing so much and so completely the first time I tried it. Upon reading my first impression, it could not be any more different 😅 I called it linear ha. After few hours, this is now back to orange blossom being the main note.
Sylvaine Delacourte Oranzo
Yay another petit grain opening! This fragrance actually stays predominating green even when the orange blossom comes in. This more so matches my first impression of L’artisan Parfumeur’s history d’orange. In the heart of the fragrance, I get the faintest hint of a green pepper note, like a bitter crisp and very slightly spicy, perhaps this is what the description meant by icy haha. It’s faint enough that it doesn’t bother me. Upon reading some reviews, the green pepper seem to be from the resin. This is the most wearable and attractive to me fragrance out of the orange blossom collection. Will have to consider this vs Thomas Kosmala no 1. tonic blanc as my go-to for hot and humid days.
I also discovered, quite accidentally (this scent lingered on my bath robe to the next day), that this layers well with Jo Malone's black cedar wood and juniper. In fact, the two together smells a lot like L'artisan Parfumeur's dzhongka, in particular the incense accord! Will have to purposely layer the two again and confirm, but if this is indeed not a fluke, then I like these 2 scents a heck lot more.
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